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Beaver
Island Jewelry Studio Tour
The purpose of this tour is
to show you how glass lampwork beads are actually made from a rod of glass and some fire. You probably also
wonder why lampwork beads and the subsequent jewelry is
more expensive than what you buy in a catalog or in a
store. Lampwork beads are created from a piece of glass,
usually in rod form,
and some flame, combined with an oxygen source, and then made into
a bead. During the flamework, while the glass is
molten, you form the shape, decorate with stringers (small
rods of glass that let you "paint" on dots or designs),
silver, gold, etc., frit (ground glass), enamels, pixie
dust and whatever. After the beads spend about 8
hours basking in a kiln, or annealing as it is called, they
come out and need to be cleaned out. They will have
the bead release inside the mandrel holes. When they
are cleaned up and are presentable, then you can sell the
beads or make into your jewelry. As you will see, it is quite
a process to make ONE little bead!
click on photos to
enlarge
Studio
bench (prior to cleanup). Yeah, us creative types can
get kind of messy! But please note the other
pictures--I did clean it up a bit! It gets messy
because you are using all these different pieces of glass,
pulling the glass into little "stringers" (small, skinny
pieces of glass for that fine detail work) and things get
scattered around. But this photo shows my torch - a
Minor brand name torch and my kiln on the table behind the
bench. The kiln is digitally controlled so when I am
finished making beads I press a few buttons and it does the
annealing work for me (more about that later). A
forum I belong had a contest for the messiest bench - we
downloaded pictures of our studio workarea and then voted
on them all. I think my picture was high up there on
one of the messiest.

Inspiration.
And that is why the piggy bank is here to show you one of
my inspiration points! We collect these glass piggy
banks so I decided to make my own little glass piggy bank
bead - see picture on left. Then of course, you need a
piggy head. Don't ask where I got inspiration for my
purple cows! The last two photos show a tie dye skirt
that I bought at Soft Surroundings (great catalog store!)
and that I made beads to match. So, inspirations are
found anywhere!

Torch and Work Area. The first photo shows
the gas hookup for my Minor torch. I am connected to
our natural gas supply. The red hose runs to the
torch and the green hose connects to my oxygen supply which
is an oxygen concentrator. Many glass lampworkers use
propane for the gas source and oxygen in tanks for their
oxygen source. Those tanks have to be outside the
home or studio and need to be periodically changed so I
like my gas hookup in the house and the concentrator.
At my Beaver Island studio (last photo) I am connected to our house gas
supply which is propane but I also use an oxygen
concentrator there.
The
next photo shows my torch with a little marvering pad
connected (very handy for rolling and shaping the hot
glass). And yes, those are toilet paper rolls covered
in *tin foil* for my armrests! Hey - they are
re-useable!! You can buy commercially made armrests
but I have found these work just fine for me. I have
an extra light to help me see better as the work is very
close and my eyes are getting old! The next picture
shows the little "area" with my workbench, the kiln to my
right where I can pop the bead into when it is ready to be
annealed and the oxygen concentrator on the floor.
Also, please note that I have a fire extinguisher handy for
emergencies. I also have a jar of water on the table
which I can (and have) splash on me if I catch on fire. Recently I
did get quite burned when a piece of glass rod jumped out and back onto my lap
and under the towel and through my pants, burning my leg.
Also if the bead is just not doing anything right (or me) I
can trash the bead in the jar of water.
Speaking of catching on fire. I also did catch on
fire -- the glass sometimes *pops* off when it is cold and
it hits the torch flame. Sometimes it hits me.
This one hit my flannel shirt and instantly caught on fire! I didn't
want to put down my bead (had spent time working on it) so
I was splashing water from the jar onto my shirt, trying to
keep my bead in the torch flame so it wouldn't crack! That
is why we wear cotton clothing, shoes, not sandals.
Actually it would probably be good to have a leather apron--which now I have. Many of my beadmaker friends have scars!
The
second to last picture is of the venting system in Ann Arbor studio. This hood
vents to the outside with the fan pulling the fumes from
the glass to the outside of the house. There is a flourescent light inside also. Venting is so very
important in glass beadmaking. I also have the window
open behind me providing the fresh air (winter and summer).
More details at a later time regarding the importance of
ventilation systems.
Glass Glass beads start out their life as
glass rods. Glass comes in many, though not all, colors and mostly
in this rod shape. I use Moretti (Italian) glass,
Lauscha (German) glass and Bullseye. The
rods have color names and numbers on them as sometimes
different sources will call the colors by different names,
but the numbers are standard for the brand of glass. You can mix
and match the same brand glass to obtain different effects,
as long at the COE is the same.
Moretti has a COE of 104. This is a photo of my glass storage -
PVC culverting cut in about 12 inch length so the 13 inch
glass rods will nicely fit in the wine rack grooves.
You have to buy the culverting in long tubes (12 feet or
so) and my husband sawed them into the lengths I needed
(hmmm, I still have some more in the garage; time to get
him busy again!!) Aren't the glass rods kind of pretty?

DipityDoo. Before you begin making a bead
you have to ready your wire mandrels (this is what the
beads are actually made on -- that is why they have two
holes). Oh, and again my husband cut wire into 12
inch lengths for me! My first photo shows several of the bead
releases that I have. We are always striving to find
that perfect release as you want the beads to easily come
off after they are fired in the kiln. Next I dip the
wire in the sludge like stuff two or three times.
Then I place them in sand or kitty litter-filled cans to
dry off. They sit on the floor under my workbench so
that they are ready to pluck out when I need the next one!
Additions/Decorations to the bead. There are lots
of different things we do to these little beads, besides
forming them into different shapes and sizes. I have
shown here some of those extras: silver foil, enamels in
lots of nice colors and pixie dust (kind of sparkly) in the
little tubes. Of course, each one has its techniques
and variations to create different effects. Next
shown is some frit (ground up glass which comes in
different sizes). This is sitting on a raised marvering pad on my workbench with its jar. There are
several frit sellers OR you can make your own - which is
shown in the petri dish. For my own little frit
making operation, I kept little pieces of my
glass rods, ground it up in a blender (not the regular
house blender but a special used blender for ONLY this
operation!). Frit offers millions of different ways
to spice up your beads.
In
front of the kiln are a couple of jars of *stringers* or
skinny glass pieces in the last photo. Looks like a
bouquet of stringers! I pull off these stringers from
the larger rods (with a pliers) so that I have kind of a
fine tip paintbrush for certain applications like animal
eyes, flowers, etc. I keep my stringers on the
workbench in these little jars. Usually I end up
making these stringers before I actually start making a
bead as I
will have something in mind and want certain colors of
stringers. I will also have lined up the silver foil or
frit or pixie dust, whatever, for the bead I have in mind.
By the way, I do keep a journal of my better ideas. I
will write down the colors and how I make a bead and if the
bead turns out well after annealing, I
keep that in my bead journal. Technically it would be
great to keep a sample of the bead itself in there too
but.....I haven't gotten that advanced (or organized) yet!

Making the beads. With
the torch and oxygen, mandrels dipped into bead release, I make my beads.

Take
off mandrel stage. We are getting closer to the
end...but there is still some work to do here. This I
do in the morning (sorry I look kind of sleepy; I haven't
had my latte yet! And my hair is always kind of wild!!)
It is like Christmas when you take the beads out of the
kiln and first look at them as you are taking them off the
mandrels. Wonderful little works of art or....a blob
of mistake! And hopefully you don't break the bead
taking it off the mandrel. Sometimes they stick - if
the *bead release* didn't do its job very well!
I use a
plier and a scrubber pad to hold and pull the beads.
You will notice that I put the beads that come right out of the kiln
into my jar of water and bring it upstairs to my kitchen
sink to remove the beads from the wire mandrels. One
by one I try to pull them off the mandrel, putting them
into a little bowl of water or holding tank! I use
the pliers to hold the wire mandrel and the scrubby pad to
pull the bead. Sometimes I have to put the whole wire
with bead in the freezer for a while to get the bead off (I
think the wire shrinks a little if it freezes). Below
is a stuck bead - one bead is stuck and won't move but the
other bead is loose. It can't slip off the other end
of the wire mandrel as there is a raised end on the mandrel. So, it
is sitting on my counter until I have the heart to smash it
with a hammer so I can re-use the mandrel. While I'm
doing all this, the dog waits - bored!

Cleaning Operation.
Next I take all the beads in
my little bowl and start cleaning the holes in each one to
get the bead release sludge (or *bead poop*) out of the
bead holes. I have a Dreml Minimite which is an
electric reamer. You can ream out the hole with a
hand held little wire scrapper too. Each bead needs
the hole cleaned out very well, especially if you are
selling the beads as loose beads on eBay or at a show.
So this operation takes a while. After all the beads
from this batch are cleaned out, they go back into my
little holding tank and get rinsed out with warm water a
few times. Then I take each bead out and carefully
examine it to make sure it meets my quality standards.
If they are broken or not very good or not what I was
wanting to make, they go into either the "orphan" pile of
beads or into another pile to be made into a mirror or
put into a stepping stone or something. Here's a photo of my
tools for cleaning and removing: I even put a new
scrubby out so you didn't have to look at the old yucky
scrubby! The Dreml is for cleaning the bead holes,
the scrubby to hold the bead and the piers to hold the
wire. Oh, there's a picture of my bowl of water with
the beads waiting to be cleaned out.

Here's my table
on Beaver Island where I put the beads into jewelry. Love this spot!

Show
and sell (hopefully!).
Much later, after making some jewelry with the beads I may
sell it at an indoor show (see booth setup above) or in
my canopy at an outside show. This is always a good
way to meet your customers, make new friends and customers
and visit with other artists who you see around on the
"circuit." Or I will sell the beads by
themselves. These will be focals, pendants or sets
and I sell some on eBay or ETSY under BeaverIslandBeads or at the
Great Lakes Beakmakers Guild "Bead Bonanza" in the spring
and fall. And on Beaver Island during the summer at Art in the Harbor and
at Livingstone Studio.
So,
hopefully after seeing all the steps in the creation of a
glass bead to a piece of jewelry, you have a better idea of
the work, effort and creativity that goes into make one
glass lampwork bead!
Glass Lampwork
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